Let’s talk about Mallorca and what it’s like for a golfer to visit. In a word: EXCEPTIONAL!
It’s important to mention at this point that I am neither a travel writer nor “objectively neutral”. I travel more than most, and as many of you will know, high-end hospitality investment was my core business (and yes, golf fits in that basket rather nicely!) I’m finicky and spoiled. I’m particular…and sadly, no one pays us for these write-ups!
Mallorca is beautiful; rustic and wild; alternatively sophisticated and gloriously simple. I just love it. It is resplendent with marvelous hotels and resorts of every “star” category. The restaurant scene is competitive, creative, richly competent and frankly affordable (from this New Yorker’s perspective). Also from New York east coast perspective, there’s a twice-a-week nonstop from Newark to Palma. Bonus! Palma airport is modern and efficient. Now, some quick highlights here, and then we’ll move on to the golf.
We stayed at the marvelous Finca Serena. https://www.fincaserenamallorca.com/en/ This is a Five-star spot, about a half hour from the airport and close to our dear friends who live in a town called Porreres. The property is a converted 13th century “Mallorcan Finca”. (For reference, a finca, which translates to “estate” or “farmhouse” in English, is a traditional Spanish property in the picturesque countryside. Fincas are country houses located on rural land. Converting these estates to rural, luxurious hotels is a very Mallorcan trend…and they’re good at it.) After just such an extensive, exhaustive and (I’d imagine) expensive renovation, it is now a gated and private example of quintessential rustic luxury. The rooms and suites are a Zen-calm mix of beige and white and cream and tan. Tranquil, relaxing and just so very c a l m. The staff? First class, unobtrusive, professional and proficient. The answer to a question never seemed to be “no”… I like that. Just a moment (although a page could be written) about food. Wow! Breakfast is a leisurely, classic European buffet -meats and cheeses and yogurts and fruits and fresh bread and local pastries. Fresh squeezed juice. Brilliant strong coffee. You want some hot choices? Yes, fully available. Dinner on the patio of the Michelin rated Jacaranda is spectacular, particularly at sunset! (Mrs. GreyDog wrote the previous sentence!) Taking the farm-to-table theme to a new level with blessedly uncomplicated traditional dishes executed faithfully and with precision…and an occasional cheeky personal touch. This is the mark of a very talented kitchen. The Thursday evening wine tasting (on our visit conducted by Amy Dunn… @tastingwithamy on Instagram and email info@tastingwithAmy.net ) is a must do. Thursday evenings also bring the traditional Mallorcan Bar-B-Que. It’s a must have. Lest I fail to mention, the “rice” Tuesday dinner is a celebration of the ubiquitous Paella. Look, I recommend Finca Serena wholeheartedly.
Now, let’s talk about some golf, shall we? Today -amazingly- there are more than 20 golf courses on the island of Mallorca! More information on: www.mallorcagolfisland.com
I played four rounds at three clubs. In the interest of space, I’ll do a ranking here:
- Club de Golf Alcanada
- Golf Son Gual
- Son Vida
In reverse order…and by age, some highlights:
Son Vida is the oldest existing golf course on Mallorca, opening in 1964. (There was another course that opened in 1934 in Alcudia but this 9-hole course no longer exists; it was transformed into an airfield during the Spanish Civil War.) Son Vida today presents itself well. A solid and tight “old school” (for Mallorca) course that rewards the player with beauty and variety. The closing five holes are very good (the 18th is a double dogleg par five with a couple of lakes as well as a stream that can have you hoping you brought adequate ammo!) This is a darned good club, seasoned and professional (and not far from Palma.) As it is the oldest layout on the island, give it the respect it warrants. The conditioning was good. Greens nice, if a bit slow. As for Bona fides, you ask? The course hosted two editions of the European Tour’s Open de Baleares in 1990 and 1994. Seve Ballesteros won the first event (so that’s why it was on my itinerary.) I’d say add it to your itinerary too, without hesitation. Here’s their website: https://arabellagolfmallorca.com/en/golf-courses/golf-son-vida/
Golf Son Gual is a treat. It’s a muscular (over 7,000 yards from the back) and a quais-American style course that can feel a touch manufactured. (Not a criticism.) A lot of ground was moved to create this, and the result is a lovely track. Staffed by an excellent team it rewards you with a wonderful experience. The holes seem to present themselves right in front of you without too much to distract you. That’s a good trait. But the massive greens are devilish, and the routing keeps you on your toes. My advice is to really consider an “additional” club into the greens if they’re a slight bit uphill. I was playing magnificently until I ignored the wind, asked too much of myself and found some “drama”. It is well worth the visit. I’ll be back. Close to the airport so if seeing the hourly flights from the continent bothers you, be advised!! Here’s the link to their website: https://son-gual.com/
Finally, my top pick. Club de Golf Alcanada is my star on the island. Set in the northeast of the island, forty or so minutes from Palma airport, you will find a Robert Trent Jones Jr. designed, 7300-yard behemoth that is a wonderful cocktail of visual stimulation and exquisite, nonpareil conditioning. This course can be as hard as you want, depending on the tee-box you select. Thankfully, there are enough options. They are likely five or so “signature holes” rather than one! I call this an “experience day” for the visitor. I’d encourage you to arrive a little early, give yourself plenty of time to warm-up on the excellent range, have a cup of coffee, some breakfast maybe (lunch) or a cold beverage, admire the muster of peacocks (yup!) and set out. There are few places where you’ll be so pleasantly assaulted by the views. It’s remarkably easy to be distracted! This is a course that sets off tamely enough with a risk-reward par five, and storms into fury in the middle holes. It calms again and you catch your breath before it then asks a lot of your game to bring it home. It’s just damned good! How good, and why would I say that? Well, the HotelPlanner Tour has confirmed that Club de Golf Alcanada will host its end-of-season showpiece, the Rolex Grand Final, for the fifth time this end-of-October. I’ll be there!! There are always people involved in creating an experience at a resort club. Kristoff Both is the Managing Director of the property. A pro’s pro. He’s on property, he listens, he’s engaged. He takes advice. Focused. Also uniquely, the close partnership between Mr. Both and the Course/Grounds Manager, Borja Azpilicueta, is just a tremendous way to run a first-class operation. The attention to detail is “next level”. If you like the Pebble Beach or TPC Sawgrass level of attention, you’ll love it here too. Borja can golf his ball by the way…a fine player! Go here to see their website: https://www.golf-alcanada.com/
So, there you go. Get to Mallorca. Now.
Wes